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Locked between the Himalayas, the Karakoram and the Ladakh and Zanskar
ranges, Ladakh is a high-altitude desert (lowest point, 9,000 ft above sea
level) and a district of the state of Jammu & Kashmir. Leh is the principal
town of this ‘land of high passes’ (la dags), with the only airport of the
district located here (which is also the highest commercial airport in the
world). In season (July-Sep), Leh town becomes a melting pot of cultures and
nationalities, and everything turns tourist-centric. Culturally, the Ladakhis
follow a Sino-Tibetan heritage, though historic immigrants from Iran and
Afghanistan hark back to its strategic location on the ancient Silk Route. The
passes around Ladakh are snow-bound eight months of the year, and the geographic
isolation has perhaps been the single biggest influence in the unique culture
of the region. Glimpses of this indigenous culture may be had in the villages
where
witch doctors, a simple diet of barley and wheat, yak wool, and peculiar
conservation principles are a way of life. In the towns, however, Maggi noodles
and Coke are easily spotted. (The debate between tradition and modernity
continues to be a hot topic in the context of Ladakh.) Buddhism and Islam are
the prominent religions in the region though Ladakhis are an extremely tolerant
people. Chi choen (what’s the point) is an often-heard phrase, along with the
sing-song greeting of ‘Juley’. The proximity to the troubled Kashmir or the
fact that the last Indo-Pak war was fought 230 km from Leh town in Kargil
appears to have had zero impact – you are likely to feel more safe in Leh than
in Delhi. With Leh as gateway (and the acclimatisation spot), most visitors head
out to the high-altitude lakes, the valleys of Nubra and Lower Indus, and other
surrounding areas. Monastery-centric itineraries are a common way of doing
Ladakh; trekking, and rafting on the Zanskar are preferred by the hardy. The
travels mostly end in Leh, where the pubs and cafes buzz with a blissed-out
people raving about the stark beauty they were witness to. Ladakh is not a
weekend break – think a week to 20 days for a holiday here.
Sightseeing
The only air base in the region is in
Leh, which also has the best tourist
infrastructure. If roughing it out is not your style, you may prefer to spend
your entire holiday in Leh, taking only day excursions (and there are many of
those). However, if you have a yen for the exotic, and don’t mind not-so-plush
hotels or camping in the open, take longer trips out of Leh: Ladakh’s vast
expanses will open up your mind. If the Zanskar and Suru valleys are on your
agenda, Kargil is a better base. Jeep safaris, mountaineering treks and
river-running expeditions to these valleys are more conveniently arranged from
Kargil than Leh. Wherever you go, do remember that outside Leh and Kargil
facilities tend to be limited and it is advisable to stock up on provisions,
spares and a first-aid kit.
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